Place the dried tofu sticks in a large bowl and cover generously with warm water.

Soak for 30–45 minutes, or until completely pliable. Particularly thick pieces may require longer.

Check the thickest pieces before draining. Properly soaked tofu sticks should feel supple and slightly leathery, without a hard or brittle centre.

Drain thoroughly and gently squeeze out excess water without crushing the tofu.

Cut into approximately 5 cm lengths and set aside.

Whisk together the light soy sauce, dark soy sauce, Chinkiang vinegar, Shaoxing wine, sugar, mushroom powder and warm water.

Continue whisking until the sugar and mushroom powder have dissolved.

Set the sauce beside the hob so it is ready to add as soon as the vegetables have browned.

Preheat a large wok or sauté pan over medium-high heat for 1–2 minutes.

Add 1 tbsp neutral oil. When the oil begins to shimmer, add the sliced shiitake in as close to a single layer as possible.

Leave the mushrooms undisturbed for 2–3 minutes so that their moisture begins to evaporate and the undersides develop colour.

Continue cooking for another 4–5 minutes, stirring only occasionally, until the mushrooms are golden-brown around the edges and there is no obvious liquid remaining in the pan.

Transfer the mushrooms to a bowl. They do not need to be completely tender at this stage because they will finish cooking in the braise.

Reduce the heat to medium and add the remaining 1 tbsp neutral oil.

Place the baby aubergines cut-side down in a single layer.

Leave them undisturbed for approximately 4–5 minutes, until the cut surfaces are deeply golden.

Turn the aubergines and cook for another 2–3 minutes.

They should be softening, slightly wrinkled and beginning to collapse, but still firm enough to hold their shape during braising.

If the aubergines colour too quickly, reduce the heat to medium-low. If they remain pale, briefly increase the heat to medium-high.

Reduce the heat to medium-low.

Push the aubergines towards the edges of the wok, leaving a small space in the centre.

Add the garlic and ginger to the centre of the pan.

Cook for approximately 30 seconds, stirring continuously, until fragrant.

Do not allow the garlic to brown significantly. The aim is to perfume the oil rather than crisp the aromatics.

Increase the heat to medium.

Add the rehydrated tofu sticks and reserved shiitake.

Gently lift and fold everything together for approximately 1 minute.

Handle the ingredients carefully so that the aubergines retain their shape and the tofu sticks do not tear.

Pour the prepared braising sauce into the wok.

Increase the heat to medium-high and bring the liquid to a gentle simmer.

As soon as small bubbles appear around the edges, reduce the heat to low.

Partially cover the wok and simmer gently for 10 minutes.

While the braise is simmering, bring a medium saucepan of water to a rolling boil for the noodles.

Check the braise after approximately 5 minutes. If the tofu has absorbed most of the liquid and the pan looks dry, add a small splash of water.

Increase the heat beneath the braise slightly to low-medium.

Add the prepared okra and stir gently once or twice to distribute it through the sauce.

Partially cover and simmer for approximately 3 minutes for bright, firmer okra.

Cook closer to 5 minutes if you prefer softer okra and a slightly thicker sauce.

Avoid prolonged cooking, which can release excessive mucilage and make the sauce unpleasantly slick.

Add the noodles to the saucepan of rapidly boiling water.

Cook according to the packet instructions, but stop slightly before they are completely tender. They should retain some firmness because they will finish cooking in the braising sauce.

Reserve approximately ½ cup of the noodle cooking water.

Do not rinse the noodles or coat them with oil. Their surface starch will help the sauce cling to them.

Increase the heat beneath the braise to medium.

Use tongs to lift the noodles directly from the cooking water into the wok. A small amount of water travelling with the noodles is helpful.

Add 2 tbsp reserved noodle water.

Gently lift and fold the noodles through the braising sauce for 45–60 seconds.

Work from underneath rather than stirring aggressively, which could break apart the aubergine and tofu sticks.

If the mixture appears dry, add more noodle water 1 tbsp at a time.

If too much liquid remains, continue tossing over medium heat for another 30–60 seconds.

The finished sauce should resemble a light, glossy gravy. It should coat the noodles without pooling heavily in the bottom of the wok.

Remove the wok completely from the heat.

Add ¼ tsp white pepper and 1 tsp Chinkiang black vinegar.

Gently fold through and taste.

Adjust the seasoning to your preference:

More white pepper for additional earthy warmth

More Chinkiang vinegar for sharper aromatic acidity

A splash of noodle water if the sauce has become too concentrated

A small amount of light soy sauce if additional seasoning is required

Add the toasted sesame oil, if using. Keep the quantity restrained so that sesame does not overwhelm the mushroom and black-vinegar flavours.

Divide the noodles, tofu and vegetables between two warm bowls.

Top with the sliced spring onions and fresh coriander, if using.

Spoon approximately ½ tbsp Lao Gan Ma Crispy Chilli Oil over each bowl.

Leave the chilli oil largely on the surface rather than stirring it through completely. This creates concentrated pockets of chilli, crispness and fermented soybean flavour.

Serve immediately with additional Chinkiang black vinegar at the table.